← Back to Cadsoft Community

Need help getting started. Crawl space and wall height.

Viewing 10 posts - 16 through 25 (of 25 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #16230
    SDSSDS
    Participant

    TL:DR You’re a nut and its a crazy undertaking…but just crazy enough to work!

    Chris, if you are serious about wanting to become a building designer then I would suggest that before you put serious time into learning the actual drafting of plans that you invest substantial time into TEACHING your self the building codes that buildings are designed by.

    You will learn nothing about designing homes by trying to interpret Cadsoft’s CANADIAN interpretation of building codes and how they apply to the construction of a building in Tennessee. Much of the ‘out-of-the-box’ in-program information and settings are not correct for construction anywhere, though perfectly acceptable for rendering where accuracy is less important.

    I would also HIGHLY recommend that you research the LAWS in your state regarding ARCHITECTURE….most all states have some regulations regarding who can design what, without certification. As example, where I am at I can design and engineer any size residential home up to 3 stories, and some light commercial without any sort of training or stamp. Other states might require you be a certified architect to design anything at all…it varies. I don’t know about Tennessee specifically.

    Here is a link to the full text of the upcoming residential building code (2021). Chapter 3 ‘Building Planning’ will provide you the design basics of minimum room sizes, spaces, ceiling heights and so on.

    2021 International Residential Building Code

    Do Not Be Intimidated. If you can learn Envisioneer (with its very steep learning curve) then you can learn building code…it’s really not that complicated, and you will be a better designer for it.

    To answer your above question…the inside room dimensions are the least important (I’ve rounded mine +/- 1/2″ for decades now)…it is the outside dimensions of a building that you should focus on keeping in even increments, either by ft or in. Very seldom do I have fractions in my outside dimensions…it does happen, sometimes unavoidably, but in general no fractions in outside dimensions, inside is fine.

    If you work from enough ‘Houseplans.com’ plans and you will find that it is entirely common for their room dimensions to be wildly incorrect. This is common for most online catalog sites in my experience.

    Lastly…if you want to get into money making faster than learning to draft entire plan sets will provide, consider getting into 3d modeling rendering work only, where you simply build 3d models from other peoples already drawn plans and produce renders for clients. You might need a computer upgrade but it is a faster route to $$ than learning how to create building plans that will pass a plan review for a building permit.

    That is the extent of my Monday morning business advise, best of luck. We need more non-certified designers!

    #16231
    conweconwe
    Participant

    +1 SDS

    That is a great place to start, building codes are the most important step 1 if you’re going to do blueprints or find someone you can work with that will teach you and start you off with some very small projects and help you buy showing you where you went wrong. ( i did it for basically free just to get a start with it.)

    I got my start with zero carpenter background what so ever. I started with 3D and worked my way towards doing blueprints, I worked with someone else and my first blueprints were a joke, looking back i know now that he had to redo most of them. I still have a lot to learn but after a couple of years I’m getting the chance to do some very large projects. So if i could learn it so can you it just takes some time. (but there’s no college education needed:)

    Conrad

     

    #16232
    jkzimmjkzimm
    Participant

    It seems your emphasis is on creating home plan layouts for sale online.

    As SDS says, knowing the codes is extremely important. But getting into construction details like you are struggling with on the Foundation options, will vary based on the site location.

    Frost footing depth and soil bearing capacity affect crawl space wall depth and soil bearing footing size. If adding real stone option, you can’t just switch to a 2×4 wall, with 8  ” foundation wall, as many states require 6″ walls for insulation.

    Rather than show or note various options on foundation plan, you can add a detail sheet and do wall sections showing a stone / brick ledge and increased footing size, stating these options may conform but owner must meet local code.

    <hr />

    Side note to previous posting where you asked about dimensions be correct or incorrect. Walls can show extra lines for drywall, sheathing, siding , brick/stone.

    It is best to set up your dimensions to measure to concrete face, to stud wall , both interior and exterior.  Builders do not want to subtract to get to the basic wall dimensions. You don’t want to rely on them subtracting properly.  Make a note ‘ all dimensions to stud face.

    Second side note, All walls when drawn adjust heights set in building locations. If you want to switch to a different wall, you can select the wall, or ‘select all similar’ and right click and choose ‘ Replace’.  This will bring you to catalog Wall option and you simply select the new wall and all will change.

    At that point make sure dimensions are correct as they may have adjusted to the new wall in length.

     

    Jack

    zimmerdesign.com

    #16240
    ChrisCMCChrisCMC
    Participant

    sds, conwe, and jkzimm thank you all for your replies. I’ve read them over and really appreciate them.

    jkzimmer, Thanks for this tip!! Just tried it and learned a great shortcut. Would you agree that designing houses with the 2×6 vinyl siding exterior wall option is a great choice?

    Second side note, All walls when drawn adjust heights set in building locations. If you want to switch to a different wall, you can select the wall, or ‘select all similar’ and right click and choose ‘ Replace’. This will bring you to catalog Wall option and you simply select the new wall and all will change.

    At that point make sure dimensions are correct as they may have adjusted to the new wall in length.

    Jack

    zimmerdesign.com

    • This reply was modified 10 months, 1 week ago by ChrisCMCChrisCMC.
    #16242
    ChrisCMCChrisCMC
    Participant
    Sorry to be such a fool but, I don’t understand this, yeah maybe I’m in over my head but I’m determined to clear this hurdle and once I do, hopefully I’m full speed ahead. Assuming this is a parameter I need to switch on or manipulate inside of the program, where about and how is this done? Thanks in advance.

    It is best to set up your dimensions to measure to concrete face, to stud wall , both interior and exterior.

    #16243
    ChrisCMCChrisCMC
    Participant
    Thanks! I’m on it!

    TEACHING your self the building codes that buildings are designed by.

    https://codes.iccsafe.org/content/IRC2021P1?examId=

    #16245
    jkzimmjkzimm
    Participant

    Sorry Chris,

    I didn’t add the attachment for dimension setting.

    I use Core Exterior for Auto Exterior and Leading Core for Interior.  Sometimes I do both Leading and Trailing.  But many times the Carpenter only marks one side. They can then just mark the next side and always set framing to left or right of mark.

    Example.  Stud wall is 12′ to next stud wall (inside dimension of room) . If you dimension both Lead and Trailing, they mark first wall, then add 3 1/2″, then measure 12′, mark and repeat.

    But if you mark only one side, then to next wall, they see dimension as 12′ 3 1/2″, make mark and move to next.

    Here it is.

     

    • This reply was modified 10 months, 1 week ago by jkzimmjkzimm.
    #16256
    ChrisCMCChrisCMC
    Participant

    jkzimm I can’t thank you enough for all your time! Sincerely thank you. I hope to return the favors in the future.

    I tried to do what you said and I think I don’t have this option as I am using Virtual Architect current pro version. I have been communicating with Cadsoft sales and may in the near future upgrade to Envisioneer Pro Architect. The price is rather steep, around a grand; until I get over the hurdle of understanding walls and foundations I can’t justify the purchase (I’ll be paying with credit debt that I’ll make payments on). I do think I’m close though; at least with the walls. I believe it’s a wise choice to design using outer walls option, 2×6 vinyl siding, interior walls 2×4 load baring except for plumbing walls getting a 2×6 load baring. Would you agree to that? I’m going to spend the day on a floor plan using those wall options and see what I can come up with; if I can get something workable then next Sunday I’ll begin experimenting with the elevation options and crawlspace foundation options. Once I clear these hurdles I can see myself biting the bullet and charging Envisioneer Pro Architect. I have a busy life and I’m only getting a day on the weekend to work with the software, eight to ten hour sit and learn, experiment sessions.

     

    #16290
    jkzimmjkzimm
    Participant

    Don’t be interested in finished to drywall interior dimensions of a house. Concentrate on making it as easy as possible for the builder. I normally do exterior foundation wall as simple as possible. Have sheathing lap down on face of foundation and go from there.  The dimensions of stud walls are not face to face but running dimensions. I don’t care much about the lengths except to not list them below 1/4 ” … in some cases not below 1/2″.  Carpenters will laugh at you if you call out 1/8″. Wood finished dimension and warp of wood don’t allow for such detail measurements.

    If a specialty situation exists where you must fit standard cabinets between a space with drywall, then measure to the drywall and forget about simplifying stud walls.

    All realtors round off the room dimensions. They don’t care about 1/2″….

    Jack    zimmerdesign.com

    #16594
    FynrDzynrFynrDzynr
    Participant

    Once I clear these hurdles I can see myself biting the bullet and charging Envisioneer Pro Architect. I have a busy life and I’m only getting a day on the weekend to work with the software, eight to ten hour sit and learn, experiment sessions.

    G’day from DownUnder Chris!

    2023 has been too hectic – moving house, health limitations & more recently moving my parents (both in their ’90’s) from independent living (2 hours drive north) to a serviced apartment (an hour & 3/4 south). In the process mum fell & fractured 4 ribs just to complicate things. So I’m just starting to catchup on what’s been happening here.

    Hope you’ve made lotsa progress in the last 7 months. It’s times like this I’m so thankful that Australia saw the light & jettisoned the Poms measurement system & metricated in the ’60’s & ’70’s. I must give credit where credit is due – Yanks have to have a higher IQ to be able to use Imperial! Yes, I grew up on Imperial, went through the transition & survived – wouldn’t go back for anything. Currency started the ball rolling in 1966 & imperial weights & measures were banned in 1981.

    avagr8day

    Merv

     

Viewing 10 posts - 16 through 25 (of 25 total)

You have to log in or sign up in order to use our community forum.