Hello, (or anyone else who knows what is wrong)
Could you do a Tooltip on dormers.?? I am having a problem when I do a dormer with 3 gable sides with a hip front that the top lines up with the peak of the main house I can not get my dormer walls to continue all the way to the peak where the two roofs meet. it gives this little area that needs to be filled in and it sticks out like a sore thumb, is there a way of avoiding this and what am I doing wrong that this happens?? Attached is a pic of the problem I circled it but I don’t know if you can zoom in on pics that are on here but it gives you an idea about where and what i’m talking about.
Thanks Conrad
for got to add
I also wanted to say thank-you to Chantale and Nick for the tooltips you put on here I really appreciated it. I learned a lot of things through all the videos you guys did Tooltips and Webinars.
Thanks again conrad
I will do that tooltip next week! Thanks for the suggestion and I am glad you are enjoying them!
~Chantale
This problem exists with raised roofs also…not just dormers
A project I am working on below…lots of raised roofs…crappy little gaps everywhere
Note that in the one pic with the dormer I do not have the intersecting wall problem the OP is talking about.
Particularly annoying is the way the lower roof remains ‘eave-less’ below the upper roof. Adding an elevated wall would be an ok fix if the top of the wall weren’t still exposed.
The need to have eave options for the lower surface is critical to this type of design…we need a roof-node there that we can manipulate the roof with.
SDS,
your dormer is correct and that’s the way mine looks if they have hip sides and a gable front and back. What I’m talking of only happens when you have a hip front with the 3 remaining sides being gable and matching up with the peak. I reattached you’re openings pic. this is what I do, break the wall where I have a blue line drawn (I don’t know if you have your wall set to auto extend or not) but make sure the small broken part of the wall is set to level, then adjust the wall height to (if you have 8’1 1/8″ walls) about 8’6″or 8’8″ that should hide that opening maybe not the correct way but it works for me. and you should also be able to break your sloped wall just before it goes up out of the roof and fix it by adjusting height, or making it level cause at that point it looks like it would be hidden.
Conrad
forgot to add your eaves are blank because you got you’re overhang set at 0″ make it an 1″ and that should take care of it
Oh
And also Thank-you Chantale
think I left my brain somewhere this morning forgot to attach this to
That’s an interesting work-around with the extended broken wall…does the job without a mess.
forgot to add your eaves are blank because you got you’re overhang set at 0″ make it an 1″ and that should take care of it
This doesn’t work due to the design condition I am working with. I understand what you’re saying though and have done it before…to ‘finish’ a gable with a zero overhang…give it a minimal # just to make it show fascia.
However, when raising a section of roof, as in my attached pic…it does not create new roof slopes as you’re suggesting above. There is no edge (arrow with properties) to select. See attached plan view coinciding with elevation view
THERE SHOULD BE!!! In these real-world cases almost always the eaves will ‘wrap around’ the corner and terminate, or simply gable, but there are no properties to adjust in this condition.
My crazy out-of-the-box idea for a workaround is to create a new level so I can locate small sections of roof at these locations…I didn’t…but I can’t think of any other way if I really had to (I don’t, fortunately)
Hello SDS,
Yeah putting it on a different location works cause that way the roof does not snap together it won’t look good for the interior but for the ext. it’ll look great I always have my interior and ext. file for that reason . another thing I did already not sure if it would work here or not. is break the roof line which will create a new arrows property just offset it by a fraction of an inch from the rest of the roof line there(you have to do this so it will only change properties for that ). and then you should be able to adjust it. put the break on the side (where the fascialess roof is) right where it meets the wall.
Conrad
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